This loosely tailored, floor-length surcoat is made from thick cotton canvas. The hem, armholes, and neckline are finished with finely woven cotton trim. The generously cut armholes extend down to the hips, and wedge-shaped gores inserted into the side seams provide the skirt with an elegant, natural flare. The design is an authentic reconstruction of an outer garment worn by everyday women in the 14th century.

The surcoat (or surcote), originally worn by both men and women, became particularly popular among women from the 13th century onward. As the name suggests, it was intended to be layered over a cotte or cote. These garments often included triangular fabric inserts to give the skirt additional width. One especially notable style was the sideless surcote, embraced across all social classes. Early versions had standard armholes, but over time these openings grew increasingly large, eventually extending down to the hips and revealing the long-sleeved cotte or kirtle beneath. The Church strongly disapproved of this fashion trend - hence the dramatic nickname for these oversized armholes: the “gates of hell.”

A practical and sturdy garment for the soldier or knight, a surcoat is the final piece of clothing a warrior would wear. Literally meaning 'over coat', it is either a fashionable piece intended for displaying ones worth and status, or a purely practical garment intended to display ones colours and therefore their allegiance. It helps on the battlefield to identify your allies at a glance.

Length: 155cm
Width: 40cm
Width below armhole: 66cm

Please note: The surcoat is red only - the blue chemise underneath is not included.